Things to Do in Ubon Ratchathani: Candle Festival, Temples, and the Mekong
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Ubon Ratchathani sits at the far eastern tip of Thailand, where the country narrows to a strip of land between Laos and Cambodia. The Mun River meets the Mekong 50km upstream, and the landscapes of this corner of Isaan — floodplain rice fields, ancient cliff paintings, Mekong-carved rock formations, and temple cities that developed under Lao influence — are sufficiently different from western Thailand to make the journey worthwhile for anyone who has already explored the obvious circuits.
Khao Phansa Candle Festival (July)
If you can visit in mid-July, the Candle Festival is the most spectacular regional festival in northeastern Thailand. The tradition began as an offering of candles to Buddhist temples at the start of Khao Phansa (Buddhist Lent) — communities carved their candles, the carvings became larger and more elaborate over generations, and by the 20th century the parade had become an enormous civic event.
Today’s candles are sculpted by teams of artisans over months, reaching heights of 4–6 metres and featuring intricate bas-relief carvings of scenes from the Jataka (previous lives of the Buddha). The parade through the city runs 2–3 hours, accompanied by traditional music, dance companies, and thousands of spectators. After the parade, the candles are installed in temple compounds across the city where they remain for the three-month Lent period.
Hotels book out months in advance for the festival week. Plan far ahead.
Sam Phan Bok (The Grand Canyon of Isaan)
80km north of Ubon town, on the Mekong River bank near Khong Chiam. Between December and June, the low-water Mekong exposes a section of riverbank where the current has bored thousands of circular holes and channels into the pink-granite river bed over millennia. The formations resemble a miniature canyon system, with deep pits, natural arches, and channels carved in three dimensions through the rock.
Getting there: a minivan or songthaew from Khong Chiam (20 minutes) or by motorcycle. The site is about 4km from the nearest road; motorcycle paths have been cut through the rice fields. Entry approximately ฿30 at the main viewing area.
Timing: The best formations are visible December–April when the Mekong is at its lowest. By June, rising monsoon water begins to submerge the lower formations. By late September, the entire area is under 5–10 metres of floodwater.
Pha Taem National Park
The park covers the Mekong escarpment north of Khong Chiam. Two features make it worth the trip:
Pha Taem Cliff Paintings — Prehistoric rock paintings on a 3km section of cliff face, dating to between 1,000 and 4,000 years ago. The ochre-red paintings depict fish, giant catfish (plaa beuk — the giant Mekong catfish), human figures, elephants, and hand prints, painted by the ancestors of today’s Isaan and Lao populations. A boardwalk trail runs below the cliff face for 1.5km. Entry approximately ฿200 as of 2026.
Sao Chaliang — Unusual sandstone mushroom-shaped rock formations 7km from the main park gate, at the Mekong cliff edge. The erosion has produced isolated pillars of red sandstone in landscape reminiscent of American canyon country. Accessible by car or motorcycle.
Viewpoints: Several viewpoints along the escarpment look across the Mekong into Laos — the Lao side is undeveloped forest, creating a contrast visible from the Thai clifftops.
Ubon Ratchathani City
The city itself has a pleasant centre built around the Mun River.
Wat Thung Si Muang — In the city centre, with a rare teak Tripitaka library built on stilts over a pond (to protect the manuscripts from insects). 19th-century Lao-style architecture with delicate carved eaves. Free entry.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua — A modern temple notable for its imposing white chedi modelled on the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, India. The scale is impressive; the interior has murals covering every surface. 3km from the city centre.
Ubon Ratchathani National Museum — In the former residence of the city’s first governor. Collection covers Dvaravati-era sculpture, prehistoric artefacts from the Mekong region, and traditional Isaan textiles. Entry approximately ฿100 as of 2026. Wednesday–Sunday, 9am–4pm.
Khong Chiam and the Two-Colour River
55km northeast of Ubon (approximately 1 hour by songthaew). Khong Chiam is a small town at the confluence of the Mun and Mekong rivers — the “Two-Colour River” phenomenon (mae nam song si) is visible at the confluence where the brown Mun and blue-green Mekong flow side by side for several hundred metres before mixing. The effect is clearest from November to January.
The town has a guesthouse strip and is used as the overnight base for Sam Phan Bok and Pha Taem visits.
Isaan Food in Ubon
Ubon has a good food market scene on and around Ratchabut Road.
Larb pla duk foo (crispy catfish larb) is a regional speciality — shredded catfish fried crispy and tossed with lime, chilli, and toasted rice powder, served with raw cabbage. Available at the Talad Yai (central market) and most larb restaurants.
Moo ping (grilled pork skewers) with sticky rice is the universal Isaan breakfast. Nam tok (waterfall pork — grilled pork in a spiced larb-style dressing) is different from the Bangkok restaurant version and closer to Lao cooking.
The evening market along the Mun River embankment has the widest selection of food for an evening walk.
Practical Information
Getting to Ubon: Flights from Bangkok (1.5 hours, from approximately ฿900 as of 2026). Overnight bus from Bangkok (8–10 hours, approximately ฿400–600). Overnight train from Bangkok (10–11 hours, sleeper from approximately ฿700).
Getting around: Songthaews and motorcycle taxis cover the city (฿10–30). For Khong Chiam, Sam Phan Bok, and Pha Taem: songthaew to Phibun Mangsahan (30 minutes, ฿40), then another to Khong Chiam (30 minutes, ฿30). Motorcycle hire (฿200–250/day) gives the most freedom for the park and rock formations. Taxis and tuk-tuks are available from the city at approximately ฿600–1,000 for a full-day trip.
Where to stay: Budget: Sri Isaan Hotel near the central market (฿350–600/night). Mid-range: Tohsang City Hotel (฿900–1,600/night). Ubon’s accommodation is functional but not luxurious.
When to visit: November to February is dry and comfortable. The Candle Festival (July) is the cultural highlight. Sam Phan Bok is best December–March.
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See also: Khon Kaen guide · Udon Thani guide · best time to visit Thailand
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival?
- The Khao Phansa Candle Festival is held in Ubon Ratchathani on or around the beginning of Buddhist Lent (Asalha Bucha day), typically in July. Enormous carved wax candles — some over 5 metres tall — are paraded through the city on floats before being installed in temples for the Lent season. The carvings depict scenes from Buddhist scripture and the parade is accompanied by music, dance, and processions. It is one of the most spectacular regional festivals in Thailand.
- How do you get to Ubon Ratchathani?
- Flights from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi (1.5 hours, from approximately ฿900 as of 2026). Bus from Bangkok's Northern/Northeastern Bus Terminal (8–10 hours, approximately ฿400–600 VIP). Overnight train from Bangkok Hua Lamphong (10–11 hours, sleeper cars available, approximately ฿600–1,200 depending on class). The train is a comfortable overnight option that arrives at a civilised morning hour.
- What is Sam Phan Bok?
- Sam Phan Bok — the 'Grand Canyon of Thailand' in local branding — is a section of the Mekong River bank where the dry-season low water levels expose thousands of circular holes eroded into the rock by the river over millennia. The formations are visible from approximately December to June when the Mekong is low. They're 80km north of Ubon town, accessible by road.
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