Ubon Ratchathani Travel Guide: Candle Festival and Mekong

Ubon Ratchathani at a glance

Ubon Ratchathani is the largest city in Isan’s eastern corner, near the point where Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia approach each other — sometimes called the Emerald Triangle. The city has a well-preserved temple culture and hosts one of Thailand’s most impressive provincial festivals. It’s the furthest major city from Bangkok in the northeast (650km) and sees relatively few foreign visitors outside festival season.

Candle Festival (Hae Thian)

The defining event of Ubon Ratchathani. Every year at the start of Buddhist Lent, the city’s craftspeople spend months carving enormous wax candles — 3–5 metres tall — into elaborate sculptures depicting mythological figures, temple scenes, and floral patterns. These are loaded onto decorated floats and paraded through the city’s main streets before being donated to local temples, where they will burn during the three-month Lent period.

The parade itself takes several hours and draws crowds of 50,000+. The exhibition at Thung Si Mueang park (the week before) displays the candles close up before the parade. Accommodation books out months in advance for this period.

Pha Taem National Park

100km north on the Mekong border. The main cliff face contains prehistoric paintings — handprints, fish, giant catfish, and geometric shapes etched in red ochre and estimated to be 3,000–4,000 years old. A boardwalk runs below the cliff for close viewing.

The Hat Chom Dao viewpoint looks across the Mekong into Laos. At the right water level, the river exposes a series of mushroom-shaped rock formations (Sao Chaliang). Sunrise here is a worthwhile early start.

Entry: ฿100. Best by rented vehicle or tour from Ubon Ratchathani.

Temples in the city

Wat Thung Si Mueang — Built in the Rattanakosin period, with a wooden ho trai (scripture library) built on stilts over a pond to protect manuscripts from ants and moisture. One of the most beautiful small temple structures in Isan.

Wat Jaeng — The most important temple in the city. Houses the Phra Kaew Buraphat — a revered Buddha image. The temple compound is active with worshippers.

Wat Phra That Nong Bua — Built to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of Buddhism, modelled on the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, India. Visible from some distance — the white stupa rises 55 metres.

Practical information

Getting there — Flights from Bangkok (1 hour, from ฿900). Overnight train from Bangkok Hua Lamphong (10–12 hours). Bus from Bangkok’s northeastern terminal (8–9 hours, ฿400–600).

Best time — The Candle Festival (July/August) is the main draw. The dry season (November–March) is pleasant for national park visits. The Mekong is highest and most dramatic September–October.