Koh Chang Travel Guide: Thailand's Second Largest Island

Koh Chang at a glance

Koh Chang is Thailand’s second largest island (after Phuket), located in Trat province near the Cambodian border. The interior is 70% national park — steep jungle-covered mountains that make the island visually dramatic and keep development to the western and southern coasts. The island is less visited than Phuket or Koh Samui, with a more relaxed atmosphere and genuinely preserved forest.

Beaches

White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) — The longest and most developed beach on the west coast. 3km of sand with the island’s main concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, and bars. The beach is attractive with good swimming in season. The northern end is cleaner and quieter.

Klong Prao Beach — 3km south of White Sand. A long beach backed by mangroves and resort properties. Quieter than White Sand, with a different atmosphere — more families and couples, fewer backpackers.

Kai Bae Beach — Further south. A smaller bay with clearer water than the northern beaches. Mostly mid-range bungalow accommodation.

Lonely Beach (Hat Tha Nam) — Despite the name, no longer lonely — it’s the backpacker centre with bars, reggae music, and a well-established social scene. The beach itself is the most scenic on the island but the atmosphere is entirely driven by the guesthouse strip.

Bailan Bay and Bang Bao — The south coast, with Bang Bao being a traditional fishing village on stilts. Several dive operators and restaurants are built over the water on the village piers. The bay has good diving access to the offshore sites.

Jungle and waterfalls

Koh Chang’s interior is more impressive than its beaches. Three main waterfalls are accessible:

Klong Plu Waterfall — The most popular (40m drop, accessible car park, entry ฿200). A short walk through forest. Swimmable pool at the base.

Than Mayom Waterfall — On the east coast. A series of smaller falls with royal graffiti — inscriptions from the reigns of Rama V, VI, and VII carved into the rock. Less visited than Klong Plu.

Khlong Neung Waterfall — More remote, requires a guide or a longer hike. The forest around it is largely undisturbed.

Trekking and jungle tours — Half-day jungle walks with guides: ฿600–900. The jungle is genuinely wild — monitor lizards, macaques, hornbills, and occasional wild boar.

Diving

Bang Bao Bay at the south tip is the main dive hub. Sites include the HTMS Chang wreck (a decommissioned navy ship sunk as an artificial reef in 2012, 14–30 metres), coral reefs around the offshore islands Koh Rang and Koh Kra, and snorkel sites near the coast.

Day dive packages: ฿2,000–3,000 including 2 dives, equipment, and boat. Visibility is variable (5–20 metres depending on season and recent weather).

Cambodia border crossing

The Haad Lek–Cham Yeam crossing (at the southern tip of Trat province, accessible by public transport or tour) connects to Sihanoukville in Cambodia. Minivans from Trat run to Haad Lek (2 hours). Cambodian visa on arrival is available at the crossing ($30 USD). A bus continues to Sihanoukville (5–6 hours).

Practical information

Getting there — Bus from Bangkok Eastern Bus Terminal to Trat (5–6 hours, ฿250–400) + ferry from Laem Ngop (30km from Trat, ฿80). Bangkok Airways flight from Suvarnabhumi to Trat (1 hour, ฿1,500–3,000) + ferry. The ferry crossing itself takes 35 minutes.

Getting around — Songthaews run the west coast road. Motorbike hire (฿200/day) for the full island circuit. The east coast road is scenic but poorly maintained in parts.

Best time — November to April. The island gets the eastern Gulf monsoon October–November but also has some exposure to the southwest monsoon May–October. December to February is the peak and most reliable season.